May 162012
 

Bruichladdich Blacker Still

50.7% abv

Score:  87/100

 

Normally a sulfur note this prevalent would leave me searching for a plant or some other discreet location to dump my drink.  However…and this is a big however…there is something that works here.  Somewhat of a ‘succeeds in spite of itself’ scenario.

Those in fear of bold sherry…kindly take leave.  This is monstrous.  20 years old and I imagine more than a couple of those were spent sucking up grape residue from former sherry wood.

So…the malt.

Sulfur.  Heavy and brooding.  Deeply oiled leather.  Beef in burnt teriyaki sauce (over-caramelized sugars…still carrying some salts).  Dates or figs or what have you.  Cherries in dark chocolate.  Think meaty and spicy.  Also think: “when baking your fruitcake…be sure to turn the oven off in time”.

Sulfur, meatiness and burnt notes carry through to the palate.  The sherry is as dense as a Scottish rain cloud.  Heavy toasted sugars.

I realize that some of the afore-said may not give the most favorable impression, but before forming any preconceptions, re-read the ‘however’ that introduces this review.

One final caveat:

Give this whisky a good 15-20 minutes in the glass before devoting time.  It needs to open up.  I promise you this breathing period will allow a little diffusion of the sulfur flaw, and greatly benefit your enjoyment.

 

Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

 Posted by at 9:46 pm

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