After having recently had my socks knocked off by a couple of exclusive bottlings of GlenDronach I decided to revisit the core range. Glad for it too. “Revival”, GlenDronach’s new 15 year expression, is exactly what I’ve been looking for. A mid-price sherried malt that sparkles without the benefit of excessive aging (and the price that comes with it) or cask strength might (contrary to popular belief, I don’t always want that massive delivery).
To its credit this malt is still bottled at a respectable 46% abv. As I’ve been attempting to drill this home for some time now, I’d like to clarify a little here. Higher bottling strength (alcohol by volume, or ‘abv’) equals a deeper intensity of flavor. We’re not out to get soused here, folks…we’re looking for the proper form of delivery for so romantic a drink. Why dilute the magic?
At 15 years the malty cereal notes so prevalent in the 12 year old expression have all but disappeared. Instead we’re left with sweet Oloroso sherry and chewy toffee. Rich and creamy melted chocolate, lightly spiced orange, and fine threads of vanilla and oak are rounded out by a touch of dried cherry and tart plum. Delightful.
Though wickedly tasty in its own right, the nose is so much bigger than what you get on the tongue. How could it not be? By no means is this a disappointment…simply an observation.
It all ends on a high note, as the finish is unique and defining. The mildly peppered blackberry notes that linger are something that will keep me coming back to this one time and again. Doubtless, the best expression in the current range.
Shimmeringly beautiful. This one had me at ‘hello’.
– Reviewed by: Curt
– Photo: Curt