All Things Whisky

Changing The Face Of All Things Whisky

Mar 092012

Greetings, friends!

Just a quick note.

ATW will be going through a bit of a facelift in the coming weeks. We (hopefully) learn from our mistakes, and boy, did I make a few in the setup of this site. Time to right the ship a bit.

Chances are good there will be a bit of trial and error along the way, so patience is appreciated. Any comments are not only welcome, but sincerely hoped for. This site serves two purposes. 1) To allow me an outlet for some of my whisky nerdery, and 2) To share what knowledge I (and some great friends) have. In effect…this site ain’t just for me. If there’s something you’d like to see on ATW…drop a line.

Thanks, all.

Welcome To All Things Whisky

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Aug 132010

Greetings…and welcome to All Things Whisky!

Glasses high!

Bunnahabhain 18 y.o. Review

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May 172012

Bunnahabhain 18 y.o.

46.3% abv

Score: 93/100

No beating around the bush.

I adore this whisky. Where the old Bunna 18 seemed somehow flat and lifeless, this is vibrant and sparkling. It is not only incredibly relevant, but a welcome addition to the Islay malt stable, something I think Bunnahabhain has struggled with in recent years. Most whisky drinkers, when asked about Islay malts, will wax poetic about Ardbeg, Laphroaig or Lagavulin. Others may think of the rebellious Bruichladdich or fledgling Kilchoman. Not many immediately think of Bunnahabhain, the island’s most lightly-peated offering.

Bunnahabhain has never been bad, it has simply been overshadowed and under-hyped. My personal approach to Bunna was that if I was going to spend money on an unpeated (or lightly peated) whisky, there were far better ‘bang-for-your-buck’ drams on the market. Bunna has kicked that approach out the window with its recent facelift.

Here is the 18 year old expression, non-chill-filtered, and bottled at a perfectly suited 46.3% abv.

Though I believe all whiskies should be served up in this manner, it holds particularly true for the older vintages, which need the oomph of a higher alcohol content to let all of those sexy flavor notes and subtle complexities carry a little more heft. Bunna 18 is a prime example of this theory. Older than it’s years and just starting to show that waxy age, this is a malt that is unquestionably Islay, but unmistakeably unique.

The nose is smoke and sherry. Ashy peat. Pear and sweet banana cream. Some sort of orchard fruit. Honey and vanilla. Stunning interplay at work here.

First sips…

Wow, what a mouthful. You can feel the oily tentacles exploring every oral crevice. This is a gooey, chewy malt full of smoke, sherried honey oak and a complex tapestry of spritely fruits. This is maturity and youthful zest in perfect harmony. Kinda like a mix tape (showing my age here) with the odd classic sprinkled in amongst a hatful of new indie bands.

The finish is thick and solid and lingers. Lovely.

There is something quirky and odd about this one. Something akin to a distinguished old man wandering the halls of a nursing home with his ass hanging out the back of his dressing gown. Bearing both age and zip, this Lazarus act is one of the whisky sphere’s greatest miracles in recent years.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Port Ellen 9th Release Review

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May 162012

Port Ellen 9th Release

57.7% abv

Score: 93/100

I waited many a long day to both taste and review a Port Ellen. In point of fact I actually turned down an opportunity to taste this expression a while back simply because I had already beaten up on my palate earlier that eve with a few other Islay malts. It just seemed like a waste. Put simply, Port Ellen is a malt that deserves undivided attention and an unbiased palate. Its pedigree, value (subjective or otherwise) and reputation demand respect.

That being said…this also insinuates a lot of pressure and expectation on PE to deliver and be exceptional. Is it? Well…

At this point I can’t even pretend to hide my bias. I have a junkie’s weakness for Islay malts. Peat is like a vice. Or more accurately, the smoky heft and majesty of these medicinal malts is like a vice. All eight of Islay’s working distilleries have produced whiskies that have charmed the socks off of me. Now let’s look at a dram from a distillery no longer producing.

Amid the economic tumult of the early 80s (1983, to be exact), Port Ellen was the most heartbreaking of casualties. A distillery that simply fell victim to surplus, as United Distillers elected to retain Caol Ila and Lagavulin and let the doors swing shut on Port Ellen forever. Oftentimes when a distillery is closed the possibility of the phoenix act is still a reality. The distillery may lay dormant, mothballed, as time marches on, awaiting a new owner with deeper pockets and bigger dreams. Port Ellen, unfortunately, is history. The distillery that once produced Islay’s most cult and collectible spirit is now a maltings that supplies malted barley to the island’s operational distilleries.

Fortunately stocks of Port Ellen are still to be found. Oft released as indie bottling at neutered abv’s, it is a treat to see releases like the Diageo Port Ellens. In this particular case we are looking at a 30 year old whisky at a still impressive 57.7%. This presentation allows us to see Port Ellen in all ‘er glory. And she is lovely.

The nose is typical of Islay. There is a somewhat fragile and ephemeral quality here. Slightly surprising when you consider bottling strength. A most trusted friend (the incomparable Maltmonster) suggested the closest one would get to a Port Ellen would be Caol Ila. I see where he was coming from. The same delicacy I’ve noted in regards to that malt is to be found here as well.

There are notes of smoke and briny seaside fire. Light waves of chocolate. A hint of something still fresh that adds to that fragility. Almost like a faded eucalyptus. There is a sexy maturity at play here. Age becomes almost a note in and of itself. You know it is mature, but can’t quite put a finger on what defines that knowledge.

After opening up, fruits arrive on the palate. A neat sweetness. …Bubblegum, almost? Dry smoke and a rubbery wax linger and it finally ebbs into that tart peaty green apple skin familiarity.

It is bittersweet to drink this piece of history. On the one hand, we’re fortunate to have experienced it. On the other…well…when it’s gone…it’s really gone.

Did it live up to my (high) expectations? Indeed. Here is the hype of Port Ellen vindicated

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Redbreast 12 y.o. Review

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May 162012

Redbreast 12 y.o.

40% abv

Score: 90/100

Another delicate and charming Irish pot still whisky. This one kind of surprised me with just how unbelievably drinkable it was. I mean almost too drinkable. I could get in serious trouble with a whisky this smooth and palatable.

While I can’t say that I’m completely won over by Irish whisky, I do like quite a lot of it, but at the end of the day…it simply can’t hold a candle to my darling Scottish malts. Or not often anyway. I think this primarily has to do with the lightness of the spirit. I’m a full flavor kinda guy. I loves ‘em big and bold.

Someyimes though, you gotta concede good juice when you taste it, irrespective of whether or not it falls into your typical fare. Case in point…Redbreast 12 year old.

The nose is bourbon-heavy, and smacks of a rye-like sweetness too. Typical of many Irish whiskies, this is a fruit fiesta, led by big orange notes. There is a beautiful balance to here with the sweeter notes meeting some warm creamy counters in the aromas of a morning bakery, oatmeal raisin cookie, warm suede, light spice and smooth vanilla. Lemon pie too.

The palate is a perfect sum of its parts. Here we have a veritable fruit basket in a glass. Mouthwateringly full and absolutely engaging. Fruity, warming and familiar, sweet and delicious. It doesn’t overstay its welcome (whiskyspeak for ‘short finish’), but is entirely enjoyable while it does hang about.

Absolutely nothing to fault here. Having said that…it’s also not spectacular. Although at cask strength or maybe at 18-25 years old, I’d argue it could be absolutely magnificent.

Would love to try this stuff at cask strength.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Highland Park 15 y.o. Review

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May 162012

Highland Park 15 y.o.

40% abv

Score: 86.5/100

This was a pleasant surprise. I remember being somewhat less than enthused with Highland Park’s 15 year old expression. Not that I didn’t like it, but simply that it seemed a little lackluster in an otherwise brilliant portfolio. To sate my curiosity, and alleviate a gnawing concern that I wasn’t giving this one its due, I nabbed a bottle a few months back and finally got around to popping the cork.

I’ll be honest here and say that I still find this the least spectacular of the range, but it sparkles in ways I don’t remember from initial impressions. It is a mellowed version of the 12 year old, but I still find I prefer the youthful bite and malty edge of that expression to this. Maybe that’s just me.

All personal preference aside, this is simply another solid outing from one of the best operational distilleries out there.

As mentioned, the maltiness of the 12 year old has all but disappeared by this age. Three more years in oak have dulled that throb down to a slow heartbeat. So what remains of the Highland Park character when you tumble the edges off? Peat and smoke? Check. Honey? Check. Meadow flower/heather? Check. These three always seem to form the backbone of any HP I’ve tasted (excepting that odd…truly odd…Hudson’s Bay, bottled by the fine folk at ‘Laddich), and while they by no means define Highland Park they do sort of exemplify the distillery’s character.

I also picked up a touch of dill, some toffee (or light caramel) and a hint of chocolate. Finally, and quite interestingly, hay and horse blanket. Nifty.

All told…not a bad ride. Personally though…I’d get off one stop sooner (12 year) or take this train to any of the more distant stops (18, 25, 30, 40 year).

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Ardbeg Supernova SN2010 Review

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May 162012

Ardbeg Supernova SN2010

60.1% abv

Score: 93/100

I know more than a few of you have been waiting for this review. Sorry to keep you waiting, buoys and gulls. This simply is not a whisky that can be reviewed after a single sitting. Now…many moons later…I have cowered in the shadow of this beast on more than one occasion and feel a little more comfortable sharing my thoughts.

Conversations regarding the Supernova nearly always revolve around either the novel enormity of this phenolic explosion or the ongoing phenol war between this and Bruichladdich’s Octomore. Either way, it is a sad discredit to the inherent quality of this young and beastly Ardbeg.

A few months back my wife and I celebrated our six year anniversary. A great evening of getting tattooed, having dinner together and heading out of town for a night away was capped by curling up in front of the Lost with drinks in hand. Hers…fermented grapes. Mine…fermented barley. Though I don’t remember hers…I’m pretty certain she’ll never forget mine. It literally made the hair on her arms stand up and brought a tear to her eye. This was, of course, the SN2010.

So what is it that constitutes this dram which wields such tremendous fury?

Nose:

The phenols at this level are absolutely blinding. This is a young Ardbeg with the volume cranked up to 11. We peat lovers have become somewhat jaded in recent years with a spate of enormously peated whiskies, but when you consciously step back and consider the contents of the green bottle in hand…well…it is hard not be bowled over. This is almost an abomination in the whisky world through its sheer enormity. Its sublime flavors are likely to be lost on the novice. Heed this…take your time with the SN2010. It will pay off.

As many of you know by now, I like to visualize these things. Humor me if you will. Ocean waves whipped to a frothy fury; savage and unstoppable winds tearing long coastal grass from its roots and blasting the remnants of peat embers hither and yon. …And no shelter to be seen.

It is sharp and jagged, developing from throbbing waves to a full blown tsunami within minutes of pouring. The peat and smoke are forefront (what else would you expect?), but fresh cracked pepper and chocolate are clear. Equal parts dirt and grass…salt and hard lemon…and tar. Typically Islay. Not a lot new, but here in brilliant proportion and numbing strength.

Palate:

A mouthful of smoke and pepper. Oily and tar-like. Extremely salty anise and brine. Finally there are hints of wood. Only hints, mind. A nifty bitterness creeps in with the oak as well. This absolutely has to be the final drink of any evening. You simply won’t be able to taste anything after annihilating your tastebuds with the Supernova.

I hate to blast the critics here, but anyone saying that this is simply hype and not a good whisky…well…best spend a little more time with this, folks. Y’may not like it…but you are WRONG if you say it is not a good dram. There are better Ardbegs out there, but that is neither here nor there and makes this one no less relevant.

I can’t be certain (at least until I kick it and have to check in myself), but I believe this peaty bastard is actually used for stoking the fires of hell.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Yamazaki 18 y.o. Review

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May 162012

Yamazaki 18 y.o.

43% abv

Score: 92.5/100

Damn, what a nose. Deep and chocolaty. Buckets of spice. Sherry up front with the accompanying choir of raisin, deep woods and rum-like fruitcake notes. There is the slightest hint of sulfur, which contrary to what I would expect, by no means even comes close to tarnishing this one. Finally…soft waves of licorice and black cherry. This is magic.

Engaging the tastebuds reveals heavy sherry and gorgeous deep ruby fruit. Long and rich in delivery and development. Picking up a little Kirsch in there too.

Oh, man. I’m really not sure what to say. It feels like some sort of transgression to share anything about this malt. So deep and swirling in mystery is it.

This is a drink for lounging in dark jazz bars…for French burlesque music…for untold flings in foreign lands…for loosening your tie and lighting a cigar…for discussing Tom Waits…or reading ‘The Maltese Falcon’.

Exotic and arousing.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Glenfiddich 18 y.o. Review

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May 162012

Glenfiddich 18 y.o.

43% abv

Score: 87/100

Safe as safe can be. If you’re a malt enthusiast…you’ll probably want to steer clear. Perhaps finding this a little…run of the mill. Or perhaps you’re of the sort that is mature enough in your stylings to simply appreciate a really well-made whisky when you try one. This is not bells and whistles, flash and pomp, fireworks and sex scenes. Glenfiddich is quite simple really. A whisky whose craft will pass into lore as the absolute template on how to not go wrong.

The only problem for this guy? It’s life’s beautiful mistakes that give this world the character and verve that makes me want to rise every morning. Take away those bumps in the highway and I’m liable to fall asleep at the wheel.

As a rule…keep your Glensafe. Nine times out of ten I’ll opt for a Springbank.

Though this may sound disparaging, it’s not particularly meant so (as I hope the score attests). Just thought you and I should be on the same page going forward.

The nose is rich in heather and gooey honey. Big ol’ baskets of fruit and armfuls of flowers. Creamy vanilla ice cream, drizzled in creme caramel. Red apple. Berries in cream. Pancakes and syrup. Though the oak is becoming slightly more pronounced by this milestone, I still don’t think I would peg this at a full 18 years. Young and vibrant.

The delivery is just as decisively competent as the nose. Smooth and unchallengingly sweet. Creamy vanillins dance with dried fruit and crunchy apple. Lovely really. Almost refreshing.

How do you fault a whisky of this quality and consistency? Simple. You call it boring.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Bruichladdich Blacker Still Review

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May 162012

Bruichladdich Blacker Still

50.7% abv

Score: 87/100

Normally a sulfur note this prevalent would leave me searching for a plant or some other discreet location to dump my drink. However…and this is a big however…there is something that works here. Somewhat of a ‘succeeds in spite of itself’ scenario.

Those in fear of bold sherry…kindly take leave. This is monstrous. 20 years old and I imagine more than a couple of those were spent sucking up grape residue from former sherry wood.

So…the malt.

Sulfur. Heavy and brooding. Deeply oiled leather. Beef in burnt teriyaki sauce (over-caramelized sugars…still carrying some salts). Dates or figs or what have you. Cherries in dark chocolate. Think meaty and spicy. Also think: “when baking your fruitcake…be sure to turn the oven off in time”.

Sulfur, meatiness and burnt notes carry through to the palate. The sherry is as dense as a Scottish rain cloud. Heavy toasted sugars.

I realize that some of the afore-said may not give the most favorable impression, but before forming any preconceptions, re-read the ‘however’ that introduces this review.

One final caveat:

Give this whisky a good 15-20 minutes in the glass before devoting time. It needs to open up. I promise you this breathing period will allow a little diffusion of the sulfur flaw, and greatly benefit your enjoyment.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Bruichladdich Golder Still Review

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May 162012

Bruichladdich Golder Still

51.0% abv

Score: 87/100

The oldest in the ‘Still’ series at 23 years, Golder Still is somewhat of a puzzler. Reaping the benefit of a special period of final maturation in smaller square casks (I know…what?), one would logically expect a whisky older than its years. Not exactly the case here. Having said that, what we do end up with is a damn fine malt. Spectacular? Never. Smooth, sweet and satisfying though. No two ways about it.

Sweet and fruity, like sugar cookies or raw pastry dough. Notes of nice ol’ bourbon. Apple turnover and drops of vanilla. Very mild…entirely pleasant.

The palate…sadly, can’t hold a candle to the nose. I don’t mean to suggest it is bad, quite the contrary actually, but there’s a wee bit of a disconnect here. A slight tartness is met with a rather lively oak that should have been tempered by 23 years. I can only conclude this is the influence of the final ‘square cask’ maturation. The florals develop midway through…kind of a pleasant surprise…and leave a light and fresh linger. Quite nice.

This one didn’t have me at hello, but it did make me want to hang around to get to know ‘er.

- Reviewed by: Curt

- Photo: Curt

Older Entries

All Things Whisky

Changing The Face Of All Things Whisky

Welcome To All Things Whisky

Bunnahabhain 18 y.o. Review

Port Ellen 9th Release Review

Redbreast 12 y.o. Review

Highland Park 15 y.o. Review

Ardbeg Supernova SN2010 Review

Yamazaki 18 y.o. Review

Glenfiddich 18 y.o. Review

Bruichladdich Blacker Still Review

Bruichladdich Golder Still Review

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